I am on a chairlift being winched up the side of an active volcano. Under my dangling feet, tiny neon-jacketed figures carve swishing paths through the ski area. To my right, a stream of…
It took me just two days to warm to Kyrgyzstan in winter. When I first arrived in Bishkek, it was grey and cold. Swerving across empty lanes, my taxi negotiated its way around potholes, and…